The transplant begins ...

[Cariboo]

GREAT service from Alan at Cariboo GM in Williams Lake BC

$2798.88 after tax and shipping! 3 year / 160,000km warranty! All new- not a rebuild- GM 350cid (if anyone is interested I now have a 350 long block core suitable for rebuilding for sale! )

[the rifleman]

Boo, I thought you'd at least get a 572 crate engine, for help in climbing those steep hills..

Big Block Engines | 454 Engine | 502 Engine | 572 Engine

So what clutch did you decide on? I heard the LUK needed a little more clutch pedal effort, than the stock GM ones. Be curious to see if you find that?

[Don in BC]

How ya makin' out with the swap Gary? Wish I could give ya a hand.

Don

[Cariboo]

Originally Posted by Don in BC

How ya makin' out with the swap Gary? Wish I could give ya a hand.

Don

It's coming good Don. Between working and playing on the pickup project I have been quite busy! LoL

The old engine is out and on the stand. I have the intake, sensors, wire looms, mounts, etc off. I picked up my flywheel on Wednesday freshly surfaced and sporting a new ring gear.

The LUK clutch kit came in - great service from Lordco in Quesnel BTW. It is interesting that the old clutch itself was still well within service limits with the only real wear showing itself at the face of the throw-out bearing and the fingers on the pressure plate.

Both exhaust manifolds were sporting hairline cracks so a new set is on order.

The stupid heater line / intake connector snapped off with the stub flush with the face of the manifold. The metal around the broken ends looked like Swiss cheese - full of pinholes. Apparently this is a common problem with these though I still have to figure out how to get the stub out. I don't know if a little application of heat and a large easy-out will work. Any tips Don?

[Fisher-Dude]

Originally Posted by Cariboo

The stupid heater line / intake connector snapped off with the stub flush with the face of the manifold. The metal around the broken ends looked like Swiss cheese - full of pinholes. Apparently this is a common problem with these though I still have to figure out how to get the stub out. I don't know if a little application of heat and a large easy-out will work. Any tips Don?

Bin dere, dun dat. It's funny - I looked at your engine picture above and immediately thought about that connector! Talked to my local mechanic and he lent me an easy-out designed specifically for getting that damned thing out. It got most of it, but the bottom bust off lower and I still had to use a small centre punch and chip the pieces out. I carefully cut the inside of the stub with a small hacksaw blade so that it would collapse inwards and let go of the threads. Then I chased the threads with a tap to clean them up. Use thread sealer (better than teflon tape) when you put the new one in. There are two sizes of quick-release fittings, so be sure you get the right one for your truck. You're lucky Gary, you have the engine out - I did mine in the truck - what a knuckle-buster!

Know anyone with a steam cleaner, or do you have a pressure washer and a few cans of Gunk? That engine compartment is wayyyyyy too dirty to receive that nice new shiny 350!

[Don in BC]

What FD told you is precisely what you have to do. And yes, there are two different sizes and yes, use liquid teflon . Don't overtighten it .

Don

[Cariboo]

Thanks guys.

Yes, I will have to clean up the engine bay a bit before the new engine is in place.

The joys of living in a small town though .................
I had to visit 5 different Auto-parts stores in 2 cities before I could round up all the parts and gaskets I need for this project. No one business could supply everything on my list and I am still short one starter bolt. I am a glad I am working on this dead-common Chevy and not something rarer otherwise I would never get finished! LoL

[Fisher-Dude]

Tip: While you have the engine out, unscrew the idle air control on the side of your throttle body (it's that copper-coloured tube with the 1" nut and harness plug-in, just in front of the distributor in your pic), and spray the black carbon goop off the pintle and spring with carb cleaner. When they gum up your truck will have a tendancy to sputter and stall at idle. It's designed to let extra air into the intake when the truck's at idle. Reseal with a small amount of thread sealer, don't over-tighten it (count the turns as you take it out - mark it with a felt pen). You won't have to think about it for 8 - 10 years once you do this 5 minute "magic tune-up".

[Cariboo]

The IAC valve is new and I stripped down the throttle body and gave it a thorough cleaning a month or so ago.

I picked up the exhaust manifolds today - and spent a half-day bargain hunting with my wife on the Quesnel "garage-sale" circuit. When we got home I cleaned out the stub of the broken heater line connector which wasn't too bad as the manifold was on the bench but I can imagine it could be a real bear if still in the vehicle. The rest of the afternoon was spent cleaning parts in preparation to installing the new engine tomorrow.

I just tallied up the cost of all the parts and think I should be able to keep the entire project under 4 grand which is still a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a new truck.

[srupp]

Good luck Gary...looks waaaay too complicated for this old city boy good on you guys Fisher Dude and Don for chipping in with the experience.. man we have some talented people on these sites...oh ya Turbo Al also..

just in time for deer season and moose season coming up..


cheers

Steven

ps BE CAREFUL!!!!!

[Leaseman]

Originally Posted by srupp

Good luck Gary...looks waaaay too complicated for this old city boy good on you guys Fisher Dude and Don for chipping in with the experience.. man we have some talented people on these sites...oh ya Turbo Al also..

just in time for deer season and moose season coming up..


cheers

Steven

ps BE CAREFUL!!!!!

Ya Steve.....
You just go out and buy a new truck when the warranty is just about "done" on the "old" one......

Should be like us big city folk and not even own a vehicle.....

[srupp]

hey I seen Gary today and his hands are almost pristine...he KNOWS what to do and saved..$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ big time..

not like us that dont know JACK about this stuff ...with apologies to jack..lol

Steven

[Don in BC]

How ya makin' out Gary? Got her runnin' yet?

Don

[Cariboo]

Not yet Don.

The new engine is in place however and bolted to the transmission. I built a "pre-oiler" shaft with a piece of redi-rod and a deep socket and ran oil through the engine for about 5 minutes on Sunday.

I picked up an aftermarket block heater but I really don't like the way it sits in the frost plug hole. With the element tight against the block at the 6:00 position - as shown in the installation instructions - the whole piece seems to be canted in the hole. I may pick up one from GM and see if it fits better before I refill the engine with coolant.

The small bits - such as rocker-cover grommets and the brake booster grommet are taking longer to find than I expected. I am still waiting for my starter bolt to arrive at GM.

I still don't know if I should replace the rad or have it cleaned at a shop. I have always ran distilled water/anti-freeze mix in the truck and the rad appears to be visibly clean but I still am questioning the wisdom of just installing it "as-is".

[Cariboo]

Originally Posted by the rifleman

So what clutch did you decide on? I heard the LUK needed a little more clutch pedal effort, than the stock GM ones. Be curious to see if you find that?

The LUK does feel different than the stock clutches but I don't think it take any more effort to disengage. It seated quickly to the flywheel and pressure plate and after a half-dozen starts is as "crisp" as anything I have ever driven.