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10-28-2005, 02:34 AM
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i have a few questions
I have for the past few years, hunted an area of region 2 and found a high mountain, blacktail migration corridor. I have gunned several nice bucks over the past few years and 7 out of 10 have been from 25feet to maybe 30 yards tops. I am going to set up a couple tree stand locations and hope to start next seasons blacktail adventures with a bow.
Here is my dilema, I have no idea where to start as far as buying a compound bow. I do not fully understand draw length, pull weight or let off. Can you guys briefly explain? I'm of average build for a 5 ft 10 skinny guy and probably have about a 29 inch draw length i think. Advice on a total set up from bow, accesories and type of arrow/ head set up would be great. I don't have a tonne of cash to spend so if you can recomend decent gear for the guy on a budget. However, I believe in only the best of ammunition for my rifle and would like the same for for arrow heads. I plan on sticking to large blacktail primarily, but do often encounter black bears at close range in this area as well. Gunned a 305lbs dressed in mid september. Anyhow, I know I am asking a lot here, but i'd rather get straight up advice from hunters than a salesman at a shop. 
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10-28-2005, 09:04 AM
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Have you considered going with a recurve or longbow? You might find it a little cheaper to get started that way, and its simplicity and traditional nature is becoming very popular. Check out "Tradgang.com" as a source for traditional information. as well as "tbbc.kics.bc.ca"
Also with traditional bows you can buy a bow made right here in BC, by companies like "Checkmate" and "Algoma" both making works of art that will last a life time, I am sure there are others as well. And I am not knocking compound bows, I just seem to know a lot of people that start with wheeled bows and end up become traditional archers, but I have not found any one who has gone the other way. Anyway just food for thought. Doesnt matter which way you go to archery as long as you go.
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10-28-2005, 11:27 AM
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Gitnadoix is right in suggesting that the relative simplicity of a traditional bow is attractive for many people. I, too, know a number of archers who shoot that style exclusively and are very good at it.
However, to become proficient with trad equipment requires dedication that most of us don't quite aspire to. I shoot my compound a huge amount and my recurve sometimes; I am pathetic with the recurve. Actually, if I had started with a recurve, I probably would have given up altogether. Now, while you may be a little skeptical about pro shops, going to a good one (the guys at the big box stores aren't usually too knowledgeable) is probably still the best favor you can do yourself. In addition to determining things like draw length (most people tend to outfit themselves with a draw length that is too long - I'm 6' 1" and mine is 29 "), you should be able to try out a number of bows to see what works best for you. At the same time, you will get a bit of free instruction regarding form and so on. If you are on the Island, there are a couple shops just north of Victoria, I believe. If you're on the lower mainland, Boorman Archery in New Westminster has all the gear as well as an indoor range and lessons available. There are a lot of good bows out these days. Hoyt, Mathews, and Bowtech are probably the big 3 as far as reputation for top quality and top prices; however, they all have a variety of models and so a range of prices. Other well known companies are Martin, PSE, Alpine, Browning, and so on. You need to see what fits you physically as well as fitting your pocketbook, so spend some time getting familiar with all you can. Draw weight is the pounds of pull required to bring the string from its 'relaxed' position to full draw. Most bowhunters I know are set up between 60 and 70 pounds. Of course, the higher the poundage, the faster the arrow will fly and the more kinetic energy you have available. Letoff refers to the amount of weight you will be holding at full draw. With today's cam designs, once you reach a 'breakover' point, it gets easier. For example, if you have 75% letoff, when you have a bow with 60 lb pull, you're only holding 15 at full fraw. I use carbon arrows (lighter, faster) for 3D and other target shooting and aluminums for hunting. Aluminum arrows will fatigue eventually and bend out of true while carbons are either straight or broken. The main reason I hunt with Al is because I had a carbon break in a deer one time and I'm concerned about the carbon-composite splinters getting into the meat under those conditions. As for broadheads, there are many brands and some seem to work far better than others. I have settled on Muzzys, which have 3 fixed blades. Another which has become popular recently is Montec, which is made from all one piece of steel rather than having interchangeable blades. Expandable broadheads had a bad reputation for awhile but recent designs work much better; you'd have to talk to somebody who knows more about them than I do. If you use a fixed blade, also have the larger fletchings (4") on your arrows so the blades don't take over flight control. Also, you need to be sure your bow is tuned such that your arrows with target tips will have the same impact point when you change over to broadheads. I'd better quit before I end up writing a novel (uh oh, too late  ). If you have more questions, zip me a PM and I'll be happy to try and answer them.To get an idea of the range of products available, have a look at huntersfriend.com
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10-28-2005, 05:50 PM
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Lungshot, I would strongly advise you to get a compound but I would also strongly advise you to seek out a knowledgable person at a pro shop. Boorman's Archery in New West comes to mind.
To become proficient with traditional tackle , while simple at first glance, is in no way simple at all. Proficiency requires a dedication to practice few are willing to commit to. First off to shoot with fingers requires a fair amount of practice to master the technique and then one must master the skill of instinctive shooting. Collectively this amounts to a dedication to constant practice.. A compound and release combination , however, takes a fair amount of skill to master the basics of form but once this gets established you can lay the bow down for extended periods of time and then with a little practice be back in the groove. A crossbow is another story and since I have never even held one it would be unfair for me to comment on it. Whatever your choice seek out the services of a certified instructor to establish the correct basics of form. I cannot emphasize how important this is as bad habits are hard to break.
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10-28-2005, 07:56 PM
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thanx guys
some very good advice and I will take it. I'm just across the river from boormans so I'll pop in there next week and check it out. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to provide the info and recommendations that you have., thanx!!
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10-28-2005, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
I have been told that some of the pricier/nicer ones (like the Excalibur bows) are easier to shoot straight with than my little $129 Horton SteelForce is, though I dunno if that's true or not. I found it a lot of little things that were the difference between unacceptable groups, and nock splitting: marking the string so I line up the serving the same way every time I cock it, training myself to hold the bow limbs level no mater what position my upper body may be in, learning to pull the 5lb+ trigger without pulling the bow off my aim, trying different arrow weight's till I got one that shoots pretty flat without being so light that accuracy suffers at longer distances, getting comfortable with the sighting system, learning to mentally figure out yardage, etc.
__________________
"...the truth will make you free." John 8:32
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10-28-2005, 10:48 PM
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Hmmmm I agree with Gitnadoix too. I started off with a recurve because I love the simplicity of it all. My hunting partner started off with a compound and switched to a long bow and enjoy sit more......no more "gadgets", no worries about bumping your sight pins, etc... Yes I agree it takes more practise but it is fun!
I now use carbon arrows with two blade Magnus broadheads. I do alot of stumpshooting and have yet to have anything break. I wasn't as lucky with aluminum...... However welcome to the bow world! Whatever route you decide to go I am sure you will enjoy it. I love the fact they are so quiet and you can shoot a grouse and not disturb the area. Have fun!
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10-29-2005, 12:52 AM
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i came to the decision of bowhunting because my ears are suffering evrytime I squeeze the trigger of my rifle. I'm going to still use her for larger game and most interior mulie hunting, but for those blacktails in close quarters, my 7mm with boss is so goddam loud the percussion feels like it's kickin me in the head. I love my rifle, amazingly accurate out to 400 plus yards but way over doing it for coastal blacktail. rather than buy another noisy lighter calibre rifle, the bow is a natural decision. I think i will stick with the compound bow idea but will hit the archery shop with an open mind.
I'll keep ya posted
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10-29-2005, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
That one year I went to a recurve because I wanted to give it a try. I practiced diligently and took in many 3D shoots. At the end of that year I set up a McKenzie deer at twenty yards and took 30 shots at it, ten arrows were good kill shots. Though fun to shoot I deemed this to be totally unfair to the animals I was hunting so I sold it and will stick with my compound. My personal maximum range for hunting with my compound is 30 yds and I can put all of the arrows in the kill zone at that range.
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10-29-2005, 07:16 AM
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Check out Ebay, I bought a Hoyt vortec, one of my friends bought a hoyt razortec and an other friend bought a matthews all off ebay for great prices. All of them were shipped from the USA and neither of us had any problems at all.
I love my hoyt, you won't find a quieter bow, I shoot Beeman carbon arrows, and a scott release. The can be expensive thought so thats where ebay comes in handy. I bought mine off one of hoyt's sponsored shooters so it was complete and tricked out I'm not a bow guru but I would recommend a solo cam bow and shoot a release, good fiber optic sights and practice often. Go to some 3-D shoots, they are great practice, especially for judging your distances. Brambles
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10-29-2005, 07:55 AM
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A person would be far better off going to a pro shop to establish draw length and draw weight.
I had a person bring me a bow he was seriously thinking of buying but had a hard time pulling it back and it was on the lowest draw weight. I told him to not buy the bow. Remember, for one to become proficient one must practice, practice , practice. This is hard to do when one is trying to practice when the bow has to much draw weight for the shooter. My first bow had a draw weight which could be adjusted from 45 to 70 lbs. I started out at fifty pounds and now my bow is set at 65 lbs. Really look into the pros and cons of both a single and double cam bow. Personally I prefer a double cam bow.
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10-30-2005, 04:42 PM
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You can't go wrong with the adivce of checking out the pro-shops, they will show you the basics, and show you some packages. The suggestion I would make is to not stop at one shop, hit up 3, or 4. Along with Bormans, I would look at Specialty shooting Sports in Langley, I'm sure somebody else on here can offer another shops name or two. Good luck, and have fun with it.
Kirby
__________________
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. Albert Einstein When in doubt, floor it
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10-31-2005, 03:35 PM
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since I used to work for Roger at HUB Sports and he has the largest selection of new bows and can get all the major brands of bows, I would say they are the best pro shop out there, they also offer the best price. and dont charge you for all the setup like other places.when you buy a bow they dont charge for tuning or setup.
Talk to Travis when you are in there for your archery stuff.
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11-10-2005, 08:11 PM
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lugshot
If you choose to go with the a compound don't get caught up in high tech, fast and lots of accessories. Go to the pro shop and use words like, simplicity, forgiving and minimalistic. As far as draw weight start light. The bows these days are very efficent and anything 50lbs plus is plenty. Do not go for ultra light arrows. Try to keep the arrow weight up 450 grains plus. Being a trad shooter I always try for well over 500 grains. Ironicly I due like carbon arrows. They are always straight. Good arrow flight is very important. Get the pro shop to explain things. Once you start staking arrows at your chosen distance pick a solid broad head. Good luck.
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